Embarking on a multi-pitch trad climb up a towering rock face is an exhilarating experience. The sense of exposure, combined with the problem-solving aspect of placing gear, makes tower ascents incredibly rewarding. However, heading up unprepared, especially when it comes to your climbing rack, can quickly turn adventure into a serious challenge. So, what’s the essential gear you should bring when tackling routes like El Matador and other classic tower climbs in the .9 to .11a range? Let’s dive into crafting the ideal trad rack.
Cams: Quantity and Size Matter
When it comes to cams, erring on the side of abundance is wise, especially on longer routes. While you won’t be placing gear every foot, having sufficient options is crucial for both security and peace of mind. For most tower routes in the difficulty range mentioned, consider bringing at least three full sets of cams, ranging from small to around a #3 Camalot. For routes known to have wider sections, or if you plan to push into the .10 range and beyond, adding a few #4 Camalots to your rack can be invaluable. While some specialized pitches might demand even larger sizes, these are less common on standard routes.
Three sets of cams provide versatility for varied placements, allowing you to construct solid anchors and confidently protect cruxes. While experienced climbers might manage with two sets, having the extra pieces is a significant advantage, particularly if you are not yet entirely comfortable with runouts. Thinking about specific routes, having that extra cam can be the difference between smoothly moving through a pitch and feeling like you are constantly searching for the perfect placement with limited options.
Nuts: The Unsung Heroes of Trad Climbing
Nuts, or stoppers, are often underestimated, but they are a vital component of a well-rounded trad rack, especially on routes that feature cracks and constrictions that perfectly accommodate them. For tower climbs, bringing two full sets of nuts is highly recommended. Many routes readily accept nuts, and having a double set allows you to efficiently protect sections and build robust anchors without depleting your cam supply unnecessarily. Consider including a good range of sizes in your nut sets to address varied crack widths effectively.
Ropes: Double Up for Safety and Rappels
Finally, and crucially, never underestimate the importance of your rope system. For multi-pitch tower climbs, two ropes are not just recommended, they are essential. Double ropes offer numerous advantages, including redundancy in case of rope damage, the ability to make longer rappels, and reduced rope drag on wandering routes. Many tower routes require full-length rappels to descend, making double ropes a non-negotiable safety measure.
In summary, for tackling tower climbs in the .9 to .11a range, a robust trad rack should include:
- 3-4 sets of cams (up to #3 Camalot, with a few #4s)
- 2 sets of nuts (various sizes)
- Double ropes
This gear selection provides a solid foundation for safely and confidently enjoying your tower climbing adventures. Remember to always assess the specific route conditions and adjust your rack accordingly. Climb safe and enjoy the heights!
