Choosing the right suit jacket can be daunting, but a well-fitted jacket is essential for a sharp and confident look. Many men find themselves unsure of what to look for when trying on a new suit. This guide, inspired by insights from Put This On, provides a simple checklist to ensure your suit jacket fits perfectly, enhancing your style whether you’re considering a waistcoat or not.
Key Areas for Suit Jacket Fit
To determine if a suit jacket is the right fit, focus on these crucial areas:
Shoulders
The jacket shoulders should lie flat and smoothly. The shoulder seam should end right at the edge of your natural shoulder. If the seam extends beyond or falls short, the fit is off. A well-fitting shoulder is crucial as it’s one of the most difficult and expensive areas for a tailor to alter.
Chest and Lapels
When buttoned, the jacket should feel comfortably snug across your chest without pulling or feeling tight. The lapels should lie flat against your chest and not buckle or gape. If you notice strain lines radiating from the button, the jacket is too tight in the chest.
Waist and Buttoning
A good suit jacket should gently taper in at your waist, creating a flattering V-shape silhouette. When buttoned, there should be no excessive fabric bunching around the button. You should be able to button the jacket comfortably without strain, but it shouldn’t feel loose or boxy either. The buttoning point should sit naturally at your waist.
Jacket Length
The correct jacket length is often debated, but a classic guideline is that it should cover your seat and end around where your thumbs naturally curl when your arms are relaxed at your sides. Another rule of thumb is that it should be approximately half the distance from your collar to the floor. Ultimately, the jacket length should be balanced and proportional to your torso and legs.
Sleeves
Suit jacket sleeves should allow about half an inch of your shirt cuff to be visible. The sleeve should end where your wrist bone is located. A sleeve that is too long or too short will throw off the proportions of your entire outfit.
Collar
The jacket collar should sit smoothly against your shirt collar, which in turn should sit smoothly against the back of your neck. There should be no gap between the jacket collar and shirt collar. A gap indicates a poor fit, often in the shoulders or back.
Other Fit Considerations
Beyond the basics, consider these details for a truly refined look:
Balance
The jacket should hang evenly and be balanced on your body. Check the overall balance in a full-length mirror. The front panels should hang straight and not pull to one side or the other.
Quarters
The jacket quarters are the bottom front panels below the buttoning point. They should close cleanly without too much overlap or gaping when buttoned. The shape of the quarters contributes to the overall style and silhouette of the jacket.
Finding a suit jacket that fits perfectly right off the rack can be challenging. However, understanding these key fit points will empower you to make informed decisions and, if necessary, seek alterations to achieve the best possible fit. For more in-depth menswear advice and style guides, explore resources like Put This On.
