The Michelin Guide’s arrival in Tokyo in 2008 was a landmark moment, marking the first time the prestigious culinary guide ventured into Asia. While the Michelin Guide Tokyo has become a highly anticipated annual event, it’s interesting to reflect on its very first edition and see how the awarded restaurants have fared over time. Although some might question the very notion of ranking the diverse and dynamic dining scene of a metropolis like Tokyo, examining the initial selections offers a unique perspective. Let’s take a nostalgic look back at the sushi restaurants that earned stars in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2008 and explore their status today.
Tokyo’s 2008 Michelin Star Sushi Restaurants: Then and Now
In the inaugural Michelin Guide Tokyo, sushi restaurants were prominently featured, reflecting the city’s renowned sushi culture. Here’s a list of the sushi establishments that received stars in 2008, alongside their Michelin status in 2016, offering a glimpse into the guide’s evolving perceptions:
**Three Michelin Stars (*) – 2008
- Sukiyabashi Jiro: Maintained its 3-star status in 2016, continuing its legacy as a celebrated sushi icon.
- Sushi Mizutani: Subsequently awarded two Michelin stars in 2016, indicating a slight shift in the guide’s assessment.
Two Michelin Stars () – 2008**
- Sawada: Retained its 2-star distinction in 2016, affirming its consistent high quality.
- Sushi Kanesaka: Down graded to one Michelin star in 2016, suggesting a change in the guide’s evaluation over the years.
- Taku: Also maintained its 2-star ranking in 2016, showcasing its sustained excellence.
*One Michelin Star () – 2008**
- Ginza Sushiko Honten: By 2016, this restaurant was no longer listed with any Michelin stars, representing a significant change in status.
- Harutaka: Similarly, Harutaka’s star was removed by 2016, indicating a shift in the Michelin Guide’s recognition.
- Kyubey: Kyubey also lost its Michelin star by 2016, a notable change for a well-known sushi establishment.
- Nakamura: Maintained its 1-star rating in 2016, demonstrating consistent quality recognized by the guide.
- Shin: Also held onto its 1-star status in 2016, indicating sustained Michelin recognition.
- Sushi Ohno: Like several others, Sushi Ohno was not listed with stars in the 2016 guide.
- Sushi Saito: Remarkably, Sushi Saito ascended to 3-star status by 2016, showcasing a significant elevation in the Michelin Guide’s estimation.
- Sushisho Saito: In contrast, Sushisho Saito was no longer featured with any stars in the 2016 listings.
- Umi: Umi was upgraded to 2-star status by 2016, reflecting an improved evaluation from the Michelin Guide.
- Yuta: It appears Yuta may have closed down, as its listed address was occupied by a different sushi restaurant, Takabe Zushi, by 2016.
The Subjectivity of Michelin Star Rankings in Tokyo
Reviewing the changes in Michelin star allocations between 2008 and 2016 for these Tokyo sushi restaurants brings to light the inherent subjectivity in restaurant rankings. Questions arise: Did Sushi Kanesaka genuinely decline in quality compared to Harutaka? Was Kyubey demonstrably “worse” in 2016 than in 2008? Is Sukiyabashi Jiro truly significantly superior to numerous other exceptional sushi restaurants in Tokyo that have never been included in the Michelin Guide?
These shifts and inconsistencies suggest that the Michelin rankings, while influential, are not absolute measures of quality. They are, at best, a conversation starter, offering a snapshot of opinions at a specific time. The dynamic and diverse nature of Tokyo’s culinary scene, especially its sushi offerings, makes definitive ranking a challenging, if not impossible, task.
For those interested in further exploration, a comprehensive list of Tokyo’s 2016 Michelin-starred sushi restaurants is available here, and a 2008 New York Times article covering the initial Michelin Guide Tokyo release can be found here.
