Winter on the Camino de Santiago offers a unique and often overlooked pilgrimage experience. While it’s the least popular time to walk, those who brave the colder months are rewarded with solitude, readily available amenities, and a deeper connection with the Camino’s spirit. This guide will cover everything you need to know about undertaking the Camino de Invierno – the Winter Route – or any other Camino route during the winter.
Budgeting for a Winter Camino
- Daily Cost: €30 or less (easily achievable, but flexible)
- Albergue Cost: Donation-based to €12 (typically €5-6)
- Pilgrim Meal (Menu del Peregrino): €8-10 (multi-course meal)
- Breakfast in a Café: €3.50-€4.50
- Coffee: €1-€1.50
- Sandwich: €2-3
- Laundry: €2-5 (consider splitting the cost with fellow pilgrims)
A budget of €30 per day is realistic, especially with fewer open bars and restaurants during the winter. Opting for cheaper albergues, cooking some dinners, and buying snacks at supermarkets will significantly reduce expenses. ATMs are readily available in most towns along the Camino. To minimize foreign transaction fees, withdraw the maximum allowable amount each time.
Essential Gear for Your Winter Camino
Packing appropriately is crucial for a comfortable and safe winter pilgrimage. This list covers essential and optional items to consider:
Camino Packing List:
Gear:
- Backpack (40-50 liters is ideal)
- Sleeping bag (rated for colder temperatures)
- Water bottle (1-liter capacity)
- Headlamp (essential for dark mornings and evenings)
- Pilgrim credential (required for albergue stays)
Clothes:
- Hiking pants (water-resistant recommended)
- Thermal pants/tights (for layering)
- T-shirt (synthetic or merino wool)
- Long-sleeve base layer shirt (merino wool is excellent)
- Fleece jacket/mid-layer shirt
- Rain jacket/poncho (waterproof and breathable)
- Rain pants (if hiking pants are not water-resistant)
- Down jacket (for warmth in the evenings)
- Underwear (quick-drying fabric)
- Socks (merino wool, multiple pairs)
- Sports bra (if needed)
- Gloves (waterproof or water-resistant)
- Beanie hat/knit cap (essential for warmth)
Shoes:
- Walking shoes or hiking boots (broken-in and comfortable)
- Sandals (for evening wear)
Personal Hygiene:
- Fast-drying towel
- Shampoo, conditioner, and soap (consider solid bars to reduce plastic waste)
- Comb/hairbrush
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Moisturizer, lip balm (for dry winter skin)
Optional:
- Trekking poles (helpful for stability and reducing strain)
- Backpack rain cover (if your backpack is not water-resistant)
- Comfy clothes to sleep in
- Camera
- Tablet/book (for evening entertainment)
Detailed Gear Recommendations
Clothing Recommendations
- Hiking Pants: Look for flexible, durable hiking pants with good pocket space. REI offers quality options.
- Tights: Nike tights are a popular choice for a warm base layer.
- Long-Sleeve Base Layer: SmartWool base layers offer warmth, odor resistance, and durability.
- Rain Gear: Outdoor Research provides reliable rain jackets and rain pants for both men and women.
- Down Jacket: MyTrailCo and Sierra Designs are good options for down jackets. Consider Decathlon for a budget-friendly alternative.
- Underwear: Patagonia offers quick-drying underwear ideal for hiking.
- Socks: Merino wool socks from Darn Tough and SmartWool provide warmth and cushioning.
- Gloves: A thick pair of Smartwool gloves will keep your hands warm in cold weather.
Footwear Recommendations
- Hiking Shoes/Boots: Salomon trail runners with Gore-Tex are a popular choice. Ensure your shoes are comfortable and broken-in before starting the Camino.
- Sandals: Flip-flops or sandals for evening wear allow your feet to breathe after a long day of hiking.
Essential Accessories
- Quick-drying towel: A compact, fast-drying towel from REI or Decathlon is essential for hygiene.
- Backpack Rain Cover: Protect your gear from rain with a waterproof backpack cover.
- Camera: A mirrorless camera like the Sony A6000 offers excellent image quality in a compact package.
Saving Money on Gear
Prioritize quality for hiking shoes and your backpack. For other items, consider using existing gear, shopping second-hand, or purchasing discounted versions.
Managing Extra Luggage
If you’re traveling with extra luggage, consider mailing it to Ivar in Santiago de Compostela for storage. This allows you to hike unburdened.
Navigating Winter Weather on the Camino
Be prepared for varied weather conditions, including sunny days, cold rain, and snow. Check the weather forecast regularly to plan your daily distances and avoid mountainous sections during snowfall. Guidebooks and apps can help you identify alternate, lower-altitude routes in case of inclement weather.
Transportation Logistics
Reaching St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
From Madrid, take a bus to Pamplona, then another to Roncesvalles. Winter bus services to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP) are limited. Consider a taxi or walking from Roncesvalles to SJPP and back. Alternatively, fly to Paris, take a train to Bayonne, and a bus to SJPP.
Direct buses or trains are available from Madrid to Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon, Ponferrada, and Sarria.
Winter Albergues: What to Expect
Albergues are hostels specifically for Camino pilgrims, requiring a credential for entry. They typically offer bunk rooms, showers, kitchens, and washing machines.
Many albergues close during the winter, so planning is essential. However, an albergue will always be within walking distance. Expect cold temperatures in some albergues, as they are often in older, poorly insulated buildings. Reservations are generally unnecessary in winter.
Winter Albergue Amenities
- Guaranteed hot showers (due to fewer pilgrims)
- Kitchens for self-catering
- Wi-Fi access in most locations
- Washing machines available at least half the time
Albergue Etiquette
- Keep belongings tidy.
- Take short showers.
- Clean up after cooking.
- Be quiet during sleeping hours.
- Use a headlamp when packing early.
- Bring earplugs and an eye mask.
- Be considerate of others in shared spaces.
Food and Drink on the Camino
Dinner
Most villages offer restaurants with pilgrim meals (menu del peregrino), typically including multiple courses, bread, and wine. Supermarkets offer an alternative for self-catering in albergue kitchens.
Lunch
Stock up on snacks and lunch items from supermarkets. Cereal bars are a good option. Cafés may be closed in some villages.
Breakfast
Enjoy “café con leche” and “tostada” (toast) in the mornings. Some cafes offer “tortilla,” a potato and egg casserole. Carry breakfast snacks and instant coffee for mornings when cafes are unavailable.
Walking the Camino Alone in Winter
Walking solo is common. Expect 4-12 pilgrims in albergues each night. The winter offers quiet evenings and a chance to connect with the same people each day.
The trail is generally safe, even during snowfall. Alternate routes exist for mountainous regions. Villages and roads are always within a short distance. Check the weather forecast nightly.
Hiking as a Woman (“Pelegrina”)
Expect a higher ratio of men to women on the winter Camino. Most pilgrims are respectful. Be aware of cultural differences regarding attire at albergues.
Safety is a general concern, as it is anywhere.
FAQs About the Winter Camino
Do I need to speak Spanish?
Learning basic Spanish phrases is helpful but not essential.
Should I get a Spanish SIM card?
Wi-Fi is widely available. A SIM card is optional.
Will I be alone?
You won’t be entirely alone; other pilgrims will be present.
Do I need a plug converter?
Yes, for devices from outside Europe.
