Identifying vintage menswear can be tricky, but with a discerning eye, you can learn to distinguish authentic pieces from modern imitations. This guide provides key indicators to help you navigate the world of vintage clothing.
Inside the jacket, look for a manufacturer’s tag. Authentic vintage tags often feature a company name and location, setting them apart from contemporary reproductions. The tag’s material will likely be a tan color. Delve into the breast pockets, and you might find a tailor’s or store’s name, and perhaps even a date. Union tags can also offer clues, research specific markers associated with different eras.
Examine the jacket’s lapels, closure style (single or double-breasted), and number of buttons. While some vintage suits may resemble later styles, vintage fabrics typically are thicker, usually wool. The way the fabric hangs and drapes offers a noticeable difference in quality.
The jacket’s lining often consisted of high-quality material, sometimes omitting lining in the back. Sleeves might feature a contrasting white or lighter-colored lining, a hallmark of classic English tailoring.
Vintage pants offer distinct clues. Leg openings typically measured around 18 inches or less until the 1960s, avoiding flared styles. While pleats varied, observe the knee width; it should be wider than the leg opening to rule out 1970s styles. Cuffs were a common feature on pre-1960s vintage pants.
The 1930s, 40s, and 50s favored colors like grey, blue, brown, tan, and black, often incorporating striped patterns such as chalk stripes (wider), cable stripes (resembling wrapped threads), and pin stripes (thinner). The 1950s leaned towards solid colors like blue and brown, with dark fabrics featuring subtle color mixes.
The 1960s saw a shift towards black, brown, gold, greens, and blues. Fabrics became lighter, with trimmer pants featuring sharper tapers. While the 1970s revived vests and 1930s-inspired cuts with seemingly vintage fabrics, pay close attention to the pants.
Seventies pants usually have a lower waist, flat front, and a wider leg opening compared to the knee. Pant linings typically consist of cotton in the waistband and pockets, often in white or off-white.
Also, vintage suit jackets featured higher armholes and a closer fit than modern suits.
This guide provides an introduction to identifying vintage menswear. Visit a knowledgeable vintage shop and ask for guidance on recognizing the differences. If you trust the shop, you can confidently purchase vintage pieces. Alternatively, seek out reputable eBay sellers specializing in vintage clothing with consistently high ratings.
