Diving into the world of watches can feel overwhelming initially. What are the different watch mechanisms, complications, and styles? Which are the most reputable brands, what do they represent, and what is their price range? If you’re new to watches and have pondered these questions, this guide is designed for you. It aims to quickly familiarize you with essential watch terminology and concepts.
Quartz vs. Mechanical Watches
A primary distinction lies between mechanical (hand-wound and automatic) and battery-powered quartz watches. Quartz watches offer high accuracy, practicality, and relative affordability. However, mechanical watches are often preferred by purists. While their timekeeping accuracy may be slightly lower, they operate without a battery. Instead, they rely on mechanical movements, either wound manually (hand-wound) or powered by the wearer’s motion (automatic).
Most watches indicate “Automatic” or “Quartz” on the dial. However, many watches without these markings are hand-wound. Importantly, not all automatic or quartz watches are explicitly labeled. As the image illustrates, an automatic watch from Omega is unmarked, while one from Longines bears the Automatic inscription.
Alt text: Comparison of Omega and Longines automatic watches, illustrating the varying dial markings.
Another way to distinguish between mechanical and quartz watches is by observing the second hand’s movement. A smooth, sweeping motion indicates a mechanical watch, while a quartz watch’s second hand will “jump” from second to second.
In terms of production, manufacturers are generally classified as either manufactures (who develop and produce their own movements, at least partially) or brands that source calibers from movement producers, often ETA. This distinction is a simplification, as some brands modify sourced movements or add in-house mechanical modules. However, the term manufacture provides insight into a brand’s know-how and craftsmanship. Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Nomos Glashütte, and several other brands proudly produce their movements entirely in-house.
Alt text: Close-up of a Rolex Sea Dweller DeepSea, exemplifying a robust and expertly crafted timepiece.
Beyond Timekeeping: Exploring Watch Complications
Complications refer to additional mechanical functions beyond basic timekeeping. The chronograph function is perhaps the most well-known complication. A chronograph is essentially a stopwatch, typically with two or three sub-dials or sub-registers that display elapsed time (excluding the stopped second, which is usually indicated by the large central second hand). The stopwatch function is activated and deactivated by two pushers located at the 2 and 4 o’clock positions.
Alt text: A wrist shot of the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph watch.
It’s important to note that “chronograph” is often confused with “chronometer.” A chronometer is a particularly accurate watch that has been certified by the official Swiss chronometer testing institute (COSC).
Another common complication is the date function. Most date watches advance to 31 regardless of the month, requiring manual adjustment for months with fewer than 31 days. Some watches also display the day of the week and the current month. When both are present, it’s referred to as a “full calendar.” Others even indicate the current moon phase on the dial. Many watches, like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, combine a full calendar with a moon phase display.
Alt text: An elegant Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso showcasing its full calendar and moon phase complications.
These complications demonstrate the intricate mechanical engineering involved. However, even more complex calendars exist. Some require manual resetting only once a year (annual calendar) or once every four years (4-year calendar). Others even account for leap years (perpetual calendars).
Beyond chronographs and calendars, other complications include striking mechanisms like alarm watches and repeaters, which chime melodies and announce the time audibly. The Vulcain 50s President’s Watch features a Cricket caliber, one of the oldest and most renowned alarm movements.
Alt text: The Vulcain Cricket 50s Presidents’ Watch, showcasing its famous alarm function.
Watches that combine multiple complex functions are often referred to as Grand Complications. The tourbillon is often considered the pinnacle of watch complications. Essentially, a tourbillon is a rotating cage designed to compensate for inaccuracies caused by gravity. The challenge lies in creating an extremely light yet robust construction. Otherwise, the delicate mechanics wouldn’t provide sufficient energy for the watch to run continuously for a reasonable duration, typically at least one day. On watches like the Zenith El Primero, the tourbillon is often displayed through dial cutouts, integrating its aesthetics into the watch’s design. However, not every cutout indicates a tourbillon.
Alt text: A Zenith El Primero watch with a visible tourbillon, demonstrating a complex horological achievement.
Finding Your Style: Pilot, Diver, or Dress Watch?
While the technical aspects of watches are fascinating, they are not the only consideration. A watch’s aesthetic appeal and how it reflects personal style are crucial factors. How a watch looks and feels on the wrist, and how it embodies someone’s personality, are key determinants of whether we like a watch.
There are sporty timepieces, such as divers’ and pilot’s watches, and more elegant options, commonly known as dress watches. Dress watches tend to be more delicate and smaller in size. Their cases are often made of precious metals or plated gold, and they are typically worn on a thin leather strap, as exemplified by the Omega De Ville with Co-Axial escapement.
Alt text: A sophisticated Omega De Ville dress watch with a Co-Axial escapement.
Within the realm of elegant watches, Bauhaus designs have gained considerable popularity. German brands like Nomos Glashütte, Stowa, and the Max Bill line from Junghans are known for their minimalist aesthetics, focusing on the essential elements rather than extraneous details.
Alt text: A Nomos Glashütte Ahoi 40 Automatic watch, showcasing a minimalist Bauhaus design.
Sports watches are typically larger, bolder, and more robust. They often feature a chronograph complication, rotating bezels, and scales on the dial or bezel. Examples include divers’ watches, GMT watches, and racing-themed watches.
Divers’ watches feature luminescent hands and indices and often have darker dials for optimal underwater legibility. They also have unidirectional bezels used for timing dives. The most important characteristic of a divers’ watch is its water resistance. Most divers’ watches are water-resistant to at least 150 or 200 meters. It’s important to understand that these ratings refer to laboratory conditions, so it doesn’t necessarily mean they can be used at those depths in real-world scenarios.
Alt text: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, a classic example of a robust and functional divers’ watch.
Like the GMT watch, the chronograph is not only a complication but also a distinct watch genre. Chronographs are often linked to motorsports, creating a sub-genre of their own. Examples include TAG Heuer models like the Carrera, Monaco, and Silverstone, the Rolex Daytona, and the Omega Speedmaster Racing. The TAG Heuer Monaco is an iconic chronograph dedicated to racing and a prime example of a modern watch with strong historical references.
Alt text: The iconic TAG Heuer Monaco, a chronograph with a strong connection to motorsports.
GMT watches feature a second hour hand that displays a second time zone. One rotation takes 24 hours instead of 12, which is why it is often referred to as a 24-hour hand. Many GMT watches also feature a bidirectional 24-hour bezel (sometimes with two colors to indicate day and night) that can be used for a third time zone.
It’s important to note that the distinction between elegant and sporty watches is not always clear-cut. Brands like Rolex (Datejust), Omega (Seamaster Aqua Terra), and TAG Heuer (Carrera Cal. 5) offer sporty-elegant watches that are versatile and well-suited for a wide range of occasions.
Alt text: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra in blue, a sporty-elegant all-rounder.
Exploring the World of Watch Brands
As you’ve likely noticed, the watch world extends far beyond Rolex and Omega. Watches are intrinsically linked to brands and their iconic models. Most brands invest significant effort in preserving their heritage for future generations. Switzerland is the epicenter of quality watchmaking. However, there are also admirable watches from countries like Germany, France, Italy, Great Britain, and others.
