Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak, is a majestic yet treacherous giant. The slopes are so perilous that the sight of human remains is not uncommon. Among those who risk their lives on these frigid heights are the Sherpa people, an ethnic group renowned for their mountaineering skills and who form the backbone of Everest’s climbing guide industry. But How Much Do Mt Everest Guides Make, and is it enough to justify the risks they undertake?
Sherpas shoulder the responsibility of ensuring the safety of climbers, who now pay upwards of $15,000 just for a permit. Their duties are extensive, from carrying heavy loads of supplies to navigating climbers through dangerous areas like the Khumbu Icefall. Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent with Edmund Hillary in 1953 cemented the Sherpa’s legacy on Everest. However, despite their crucial role and expertise, some Sherpas believe that their dominance as climbing guides is nearing its end. Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa, a seasoned guide with over a dozen summits, predicts a significant decline in Sherpa guides within the next decade. Let’s delve into the factors contributing to this shift.
The Physical and Genetic Advantage of Sherpas
Climbing Everest is a remarkable achievement, but Sherpas possess an unparalleled advantage. Climber Sam Rashid notes that Sherpas’ experience offers reassurance amidst the dangers of high altitude.
Sherpas’ bodies have evolved to thrive in high-altitude environments. A 2017 study by the University of Cambridge revealed that Sherpas have developed genetic adaptations over thousands of years, enabling them to utilize oxygen more efficiently and conserve muscle energy compared to individuals living at lower altitudes. Andrew Murray from the Cambridge study highlighted the remarkable abilities of Sherpas.
The Inherent Dangers and Risks Faced by Everest Guides
Despite their physical advantages, Sherpas are not immune to the numerous dangers of Everest. Unexpected avalanches, hidden crevasses, and falling ice and rock pose constant threats.
The Himalayan Database indicates that over 330 people have lost their lives on Everest since the early 1900s, with 107 of those being Sherpas. Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa poignantly stated that many amazing Sherpas lose their lives on Everest each year, and he has personally lost friends to the mountain. Dawa Geljen Sherpa reflected on a tragic incident in 2023 where three Sherpas perished in an icefall, emphasizing the devastating impact on their families.
The Financial Realities: How Much Do Mt Everest Guides Make?
One of the primary motivations for Sherpas to work as mountain guides, particularly on Everest, is the potential for income. Mountain guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) can earn between $4,000 and $10,000 per climb. This figure depends on their experience, tips from climbers, and bonuses for successful summits. Sam Rashid believes that paying a fair wage to Sherpa guides is essential.
However, the optimal climbing season on Everest is limited to March and May, allowing guides to undertake only one expedition per year, lasting approximately two months. This necessitates supplementing their income with other jobs like farming and teaching. While mountaineers spend considerable sums (up to $100,000) for an Everest expedition, guides receive only a small portion, with tour agencies retaining the majority. Furthermore, guides often bear the cost of their climbing equipment, which can reach $7,000 and require replacement every few years. Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa emphasizes that the income derived from mountain climbing is often insufficient to meet their needs.
Shifting Economic Landscape and Alternative Opportunities
In May 2023, the Nepalese government issued a record 478 climbing permits. This was also the deadliest climbing season on Everest to date. Despite the continued demand for Everest expeditions, Sherpas are increasingly exploring alternative income sources.
Nepal’s job market has undergone significant transformations in the 21st century. A 2020 World Bank report indicated that 4 million jobs were added to Nepal’s economy between 2010 and 2020. There’s been a shift away from traditional rural farming towards wage-earning jobs in sectors such as construction, transportation, and manufacturing.
Phurba Wangchhu Sherpa, who grew up in a rural region with limited options, acknowledges the changing landscape and expresses his desire for the next generation to have more diverse opportunities beyond mountain guiding. Dawa Geljen Sherpa also anticipates that younger individuals may not be as drawn to climbing Everest.
Despite this, the allure of Everest persists. Shusant Nachhiring Rai, a 19-year-old porter, aspires to conquer Everest as a climbing guide. He works as a porter to build his strength and is confident in his future as a climber.
Ultimately, the world is evolving, and the Sherpa community is adapting accordingly. This shift leaves the future of mountaineering on Everest uncertain. While some Sherpas will continue the tradition, the availability of alternative employment opportunities and the inherent risks of guiding suggest a potential decline in their numbers in the years to come.
