Mastering the art of haircutting is a valuable skill, whether you’re a seasoned stylist or just starting. This How To Cut Hair Guide provides essential techniques and expert tips to shape, texture, and personalize hairstyles. From basic blunt cuts to advanced methods, this guide will help you refine your craft and achieve outstanding results.
What to Expect in This How to Cut Hair Guide:
- Haircutting Foundations: Learn the core principles.
- Layering Expertise: Master essential layering techniques.
- Face-Framing: Add the perfect finishing touches.
- Bangs and Fringes: Create stylish bangs.
- Shags: Master this stylish and modern haircut.
Hair Cutting Guide Overview:
- The Foundations of Hair Cutting: Understand the fundamental principles behind every haircut.
- Layering Techniques: Achieve success with various hair types and densities.
- Face-Framing Techniques: Discover different approaches to frame the face.
- How to Cut Bangs: Master cutting bangs to enhance any style.
- Shags: Learn the elements of a great shag hairstyle.
1. The Foundations of Hair Cutting
Building a strong foundation is crucial for any aspiring or experienced hairstylist. Understanding the ‘what,’ ‘how,’ and ‘why’ behind each cut expands creativity and adaptability. The following principles form the cornerstone of successful haircutting:
- Elevation
- Over-Direction
- Finger Angle
- Sectioning
- Tension
- Layering
- Haircut Guides
- One-Length Haircuts
- Precision Haircuts
- Cross-Checking
- Face Framing
- Cutting-in-Motion
- Layering Elevations
- Texturizing Blunt Cuts
- Point Cutting
- Face Shape Hairstyles
- Undercut Bobs
- Undercut Pixies
- Bowl Cuts
- Texturizing Short Hair
- Shear and Hand Position
- One Length Bobs
1. Elevation: Controlling the Vertical Movement of Hair
Elevation vertically alters the silhouette of any haircut.
When to Use Elevation:
- Elevation involves moving hair up and down, regardless of section direction.
- Use elevation to collapse the shape at the bottom while maintaining weight at the top.
- Elevate hair away from the head to move density away from the perimeter. Past 90 degrees removes length from the upper surface.
2. Over-Direction: Controlling the Horizontal Movement of Hair
Over-direction creates unique haircuts by distributing weight and length.
Three Ways To Over-direct Hair:
- Forward: Creates length and density towards the back.
- Back: Creates movement, density, and weight in the front.
- Natural Fall: No movement in either direction.
Haircutting guides (stationary, traveling, visual) yield different results.
3. Finger Angle: Creating Depth Within a Haircut
Finger angle affects the outcome by creating depth within the section, impacting silhouette and movement.
How To Use Finger Angles:
- Vertical Section: Affects the silhouette up and down.
- Horizontal Section: Controls movement away from or towards the face.
- Fullness: Use a diagonal angle away from the head shape.
- Depth: Shift fingers into a diagonal angle, shorter towards the face and longer away.
4. Sectioning: How To Section Hair with Precision and Accuracy
Practice increases precision and accuracy in sectioning.
How To Increase Precision When Sectioning:
- Connect Fingers: Use the parting tooth on a comb to connect two points.
- Comb Direction: Comb hair in the direction you want to part.
- Use Both Hands: For long partings, use both fingers and rest palms against the head.
5. Tension: How To Maintain Tension When Cutting Hair
Even tension is key to precise haircuts.
How To Create Even Tension:
- Ensure tension is even from top to bottom.
- Avoid cutting past the first knuckle.
- Keep a flat surface when rolling a section to maintain elevation.
6. Layering Hair: The Difference Between Horizontal and Vertical Layering
Understanding when to use vertical and horizontal layering distinguishes a good haircut from a great one.
Tips for Horizontal Layering:
- Vertical Section: Elevate to 90 degrees and cut straight across for a softer edge.
- More Texture: Use shears to create deep peaks and valleys.
- Visual Impact: Switch to a horizontal layering pattern.
7. Haircut Guides: How To Establish a Safety Guide When Layering Hair Above the Ears
Starting your guide for layers correctly prevents holes above the ears.
How To Avoid A Hole Above The Ears:
- Start at the top of the ear.
- Never go shorter than the piece at the high point of the ear.
8. One-Length Haircut: How To Hold Sections to Create a Consistent Line
Creating a consistent line on a one-length haircut can be a challenge.
How To Create A Consistent Line:
- Use a comb to guide the bottom of your fingers for a horizontal line.
- Use a comb to create the perfect line, avoiding dragging the line down with your elbow.
9. Precision Haircut: How To Create a Precise Bottom Edge When Cutting Hair
Details are essential for a precise bottom edge.
How To Create A Precise Bottom Edge:
- Cut hair as close to its natural fall as possible.
- Use a comb instead of hands to reduce tension and stress.
- Cut at the bottom edge of the guideline.
10. Layering Hair: Creating Consistent Weight Balance Within Layers
Inconsistency within weight balance is a common problem with layered haircuts.
How To Create Consistent Weight When Layering:
- Take smaller sections.
- Examine your body position.
11. Cross-Checking: The Importance of Cross-Checking Hair & How To Do It
Cross-checking saves time and improves results.
How To Cross Check:
- Take clean sections.
- Find balance in both vertical and horizontal sections.
12. Layering Hair Around The Face Without Creating Bulk or Holes
Extra care is needed when layering around the face due to finer and thinner hair.
How To Layer Around The Face:
- Detach the hair over the recession area.
- Use blending shears to reduce weight gently.
13. How To Create V-Shaped Layers Around the Face for Longer Hair
Pay attention to length and blending for smooth transitions in face-framing layers.
How To Add Face-Framing Layers:
- Connect the high point of the head to the weak point behind the ear.
- Over-direct everything forward with 90-degree elevation and cut a V-shape.
14. Cutting-in-Motion – Shear Entry Angle and Timing/Speed
Consider shear entry angle when cutting-in-motion.
Cutting-in-motion techniques:
- Slide cutting
- Slicing
- Channel cutting
- Slithering
- Pinching
Other Factors to Improve Cutting-In-Motion:
- Timing is critical to avoid shredding the cuticle.
- The Sam Villa Artist Series 6” Slide Cutting Shear simplifies motion cutting.
15. Foundations of Layering Hair – 3 Different Elevations and How They Effect Weight Balance
Understand the foundations of layering for better layered haircuts.
3 Different Elevations When Layering:
- High Elevation (90 degrees vertical): Blended layers with less weight on top.
- 90 degrees to the head shape: Balanced layers and a round shape.
16. 4 Ways to Add Texture to Blunt Haircuts
Add texture to a blunt haircut to add dimension and style.
How To Add Texture To A Blunt Cut:
- Point cutting: Subtle or bold, depending on the shear angle.
- Sam Villa Signature Series Invisiblend Shear: Creates soft, light texture.
- Slide cutting: Removes bulk without textured ends.
17. How To Point Cut Like a Pro
Point cutting is a wonderful technique for adding softness to haircuts.
Tips for Point Cutting:
- Pull the shears away from your hand as you close them.
- Consider the depth of the cut and the shear angle.
- The angle of the shear determines the texture.
18. How to Create Hairstyles According to Face Shape – Working With Features
Design face-flattering haircuts by balancing overall face shape and accentuating features.
Tips For Cutting According to Face Shape:
- Consider the overall dimensions and lines of the haircut.
- Plan bangs or layers that point to highlighted features.
- Use vertical lines and sweeping layers for wider faces.
19. In Depth Undercut Bob Tutorial
An undercut bob removes weight and volume from thick or dense hair without affecting the weight line.
20. Undercut Pixie Haircut Tutorial – Tips for a Better Blend with the Top
An undercut pixie removes weight and enhances the weight lines of a haircut.
Blending Techniques For A Pixie Cut:
- Use dry cutting and tools like blending shears to improve the cut.
- Set up the underneath to create a better flow with the top section.
21. “The Jana” In-depth Bowl Cut Tutorial
A modern take on a classic, the bowl cut makes a bold statement.
The Bowl Cut – What You’ll Learn:
- Step-by-step tutorial from sectioning to refining the cut.
- Use a swivel shear to create an edgy shape with a modern approach.
22. 3 Quick Tips for Texturizing Short Hair
Having a plan when texturizing short hair is essential.
A Few Things You’ll Learn In This Video:
- Adjust density based on thick or thin areas.
- Use a variety of tools like texturizing shears.
23. HOT TIP: Shear and Hand Position
Comfort begins with the shear in your hand.
What You’ll Learn:
- Adjusting your hand position to alleviate discomfort when cutting, focusing on ergonomically correct posture
24. 3 Ways To Cut a One Length Bob
The bob is one of the most iconic cuts that continues to stand the test of time.
A Few Things You’ll Learn In This Video:
- Detailing the top 3 ways to cut a one length bob, you’ll learn how to perfect the perimeter.
- It will also discuss the difference how to hold the hair against the skin. Detailing one or two fingers of the palm to hold sections of hair.
2. Layering Techniques
Layering is a versatile technique that adds life and movement to haircuts. The section of this how to cut hair guide will cover the must know layering techniques that you need to know. From short and textured to long and flowing, layers can elevate any style. This segment will explore innovative options and solutions to common challenges:
- Cutting Layers in Stick-Straight Hair
- Creating Visual Interest & Dimension In Long Hair
- Creating Layers in the Crown with a Twist Cutting Technique
- Ombre Layering Technique: A Layering Technique for Longer Hair
- The Easiest Way To Cut Long Layers Throughout The Hair
- How To Add Layers Without Compromising the Perimeter
- How To Create Volume in the Crown: Cutting Soft Layers in Longer Hair
- How To Cut Layers Without Making Them Look Choppy
- How To Cut Even Layers When You Wear a Deep Side Part or Side Sweeping Fringe
- How To Keep Layers Balanced
- How To Create Shorter Layers with Movement in the Crown Using a Diamond Section
- Disconnected Layers: Remove Bulk, Keep Length and Speed Up Blow Drying Time
- How To Add Volume in the Crown Without Any Visible Layering
- How To Cut Layers Into Dry or Coarse Hair
- Using Triangle Sections to Layer Hair and Create Hidden Volume
- How to Create Internal Graduation on a Blunt Bob to Collapse the Perimeter
- How to Create Seamless Layers on a One Length Bob
- How to Create Invisible Layers or Internal Layers
- How to Create Invisible Layers – Zigzag Underlayering
- How to Create Volume and Movement in Fine Hair
- Two Ways to Fix Choppy Layers
- How to Cut Beautiful Layers on a Classic Bob
- Adding Face Framing Layers to Fine Hair to Accentuate Features
- How to Cut a French Bob
- A Unique Approach to the Classic Graduated Bob
1. How To Cut Layers In Stick-Straight Hair
For stick-straight hair, each cut counts.
How To Enhance Stick Straight Hair:
- Overlap fingers, fan the section, and chunk out layers.
- Keep the blade parallel with the hair shaft.
2. How To Create Visual Interest & Dimension In Long Hair
Adding dimension to long and thick hair.
How To Add Interest & Dimension within a Haircut:
- Take vertical, pie-shaped sections on the upper surface.
- Cut a strong inverted line from short to long using professional shears.
3. Creating Layers in the Crown with a Twist Cutting Technique
Twist cutting creates layers and texture through the crown area.
How To Practice Twist Cutting:
- Twist a section around the outside of its natural position.
- Remove length by cutting on a diagonal finger angle.
4. Ombre Layering Technique: A Layering Technique for Longer Hair
The ombre layering technique creates movement and volume in longer hair with a soft blend.
How To Create Ombre Layers:
- Use shears to “paint” the hair on the outside of triangular sections.
- Think of creating density at the base that leads into lightness on the ends.
5. The Easiest Way To Cut Long Layers Throughout The Hair
Long layers create movement without sacrificing length or volume.
How To Cut Long Layers:
- Take a diagonal forward section and start in the front.
- Continue to take parallel sections, bringing everything up to that same guideline.
6. How To Add Layers Without Compromising the Perimeter
This technique maintains length while adding layers.
How To Cut Layers Without Compromising the Perimeter:
- Use a comb to take zigzag sections in the back.
- Soften vertically with shears for a tapered layer.
7. How To Create Volume in the Crown: Cutting Soft Layers in Longer Hair
Soft layers in longer hair create volume in the crown.
How To Create Volume in The Crown with Soft Layers
- Use a diamond section to create variations in weight.
- Elevation is taken across the top of the head parallel to the floor.
8. How To Cut Layers Without Making Them Look Choppy
Point-cutting techniques create layers that don’t look choppy.
How To Point-Cut Layers:
- Stay parallel with the grain of the hair to reduce weight.
- Create a fan of hair before point-cutting.
9. How To Cut Even Layers When You Wear a Deep Side Part or Side Sweeping Fringe
Cut even layers for clients with a deep side part or side-sweeping fringe.
Layering For Deep Parts or Side Fringe:
- Use a zigzag parting.
- Square the layers off and show the client the even cut.
- Use a blending shear to soften the sections.
10. How To Keep Layers Balanced
Keeping layers balanced on thicker hair.
How To Keep Layers Balanced:
- Allow a shorter layer to sit on your heavy side.
- Detach longer on one side.
11. How To Create Shorter Layers with Movement in the Crown Using a Diamond Section
A diamond section enhances the top with a square shape.
How To Use a Diamond Section At The Crown:
- Section the hair in the crown area.
- Cut past the round of the head on a diagonal line.
12. Disconnected Layers: Remove Bulk, Keep Length and Speed Up Blow Drying Time
Disconnected layers release weight without sacrificing length.
How To Create Disconnected Layers:
- Create an under layer, not an undercut.
- Slice out a zigzag section above the ear and isolate it.
- Cut on a horizontal line to remove weight in back.
13. How To Add Volume in the Crown Without Any Visible Layering
Diamond-shaped sections add volume at the crown without sacrificing length.
Tips for Adding Volume At The Crown with a Diamond Section:
- The size of the diamond is based on the density of the hair.
- Elevate each section and chunk it out.
14. How To Cut Layers Into Dry or Coarse Hair
Dry hair requires special attention when layering.
Cutting Layers on Dry or Coarse Hair:
- Cut with horizontal zigzag sections.
- Fan and point-cut deep into each section.
15. Using Triangle Sections to Layer Hair and Create Hidden Volume
Triangle sections enhance layering by creating texture.
Triangle Sections To Enhance Layering:
- Make triangles of large zigzag sections.
- Decide the length of each triangle section and point-cut into it.
16. How to Create Internal Graduation on a Blunt Bob to Collapse the Perimeter
To create a graduated bob haircut with a sleek, tucked shape and no visible layers on the top surface, you need to place graduation on the inside of the hairstyle with texturizing.
Internal Graduation on a Blunt Bob
- Starting at the center back of the head, take a vertical section of hair and elevate it to 45 degrees, pointing your fingers down towards the nape of the neck. This graduated cutting line helps to remove bulk from the perimeter and maintain some weight in the middle for a beautiful beveled shape.
- Use your Sam Villa Streamline Series 6.75” Shear to point cut into the elevated section, staying nearly parallel to the grain of the hair.
17. How to Create Seamless Layers on a One Length Bob
Enhance volume and movement to a one-length haircut, a invisible layering technique is essential.
How To Create Layers on a One-Length Bob:
- Start by creating a center part in dry hair, then sectioning the hair behind the ears on each side.
- To create your diamond section, rock the comb along the part behind the ear.
- For a diffused edge, use your comb to “zigzag” the front edges of the diamond section. Isolate the hair underneath the section with clips, then separate the diamond section into two triangles along the center part.
18. How to Create Invisible Layers or Internal Layers
An ideal technique that adds fullness, movement, and body to a haircut without creating visible layers.
How To Create Invisible Layers
- To create a reverse layered haircut, section off dry hair behind the ears at the place where the hair density changes.
- Working with vertical 1” pieces, “blouse” the hair to discover its natural bend. Elevate the hair at a 90 degree angle (parallel to the floor) and use your Sam Villa Artist Series 6″ Slide Cutting Shears to cut the hair from short to long, beginning at the natural bend point.
- Continue layering the entire back section, working up the head in horizontal subsections.
19. How to Create Invisible Layers – Zigzag Underlayering
Creative technique to de-bulk heavy hair with invisible or “ghost” layers.
How To Create Invisible Layers with Zigzag Partings:
- Creating a zigzag parting is the key to achieving invisible layers with no hard lines. Holding the crown section in one hand, use your comb to lift a small piece of hair from the lower section and add it to the crown section. Then pick up a piece of hair from the crown section and bring it down to the lower section.
- Pick up a guide from the “peak” of a zigzag, cut the guide, and separate a small vertical subsection of hair. Elevate the hair up against the head and cut it to the length of the guide.
20. How to Create Volume and Movement in Fine Hair
Adding volume and movement to fine hair.
How To Create Volume & Movement in Fine Hair
- Place the spine of your comb on the part and rock it back and forth near the hairline. Note the spot where the comb comes off at the hairline, place a finger there, and use your comb to draw an “umbrella” line down towards the back of the head.
- Point cut into the hair with your Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Swivel Shear at a diagonal to the hair’s grain.
- Lift weight from the perimeter and texturize the surface with the Sam Villa Artist Series Slide Cutting Shear.
21. Two Ways to Fix Choppy Layers
Fix choppy layers and readjust the weight in your haircut.
How To Fix Choppy Layers:
- Isolate the “problem area” where the choppy layer sits in the hair.
- Elevate the hair up to about 45 degrees. Fan out the ends of the section and point cut some of the weight out with the Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Swivel Shear.
- Remove weight from the interior with your Sam Villa Signature Series Invisiblend Shear.
22. How to Cut Beautiful Layers on a Classic Bob
Create a layered bob cut with a solid perimeter.
Layering Techniques for Bobs:
- Separate a horseshoe-shaped section all the way around the crown of the head.
- Elevate a vertical subsection of hair to the shape of the head and cut it to the length of the guide with your Sam Villa 6.25” Streamline Series Shears.
23. Adding Face Framing Layers to Fine Hair to Accentuate Features
Strengthen the ends and create more defined pieces and a fuller finish.
Face Framing Haircut Techniques for Fine Hair:
- Be deliberate with the pieces you choose to cut.
- Working on dry hair is best and stay away from elevation, which creates a wispy finish.
- Pinch small sections with fingers and utilize slide cutting techniques from behind moving forward, to encourage the hair to fall forward.
24. How to Cut a French Bob
Update the French bob classic haircut for a versatile finish.
Cutting The French Bob:
- This classic haircut receives a fresh approach and a dose of texture and movement.
- Similar to a gradual bob, the French bob utilizes a variety of sectioning techniques and a mix of shears and razor.
- It can be styled smooth or with a modernized textured finish.
25. A Unique Approach to the Classic Graduated Bob
