Gaining a Michelin star can catapult a restaurant from “great” to “must-visit” status. But what does it really take to impress the Michelin Guide? We delve into the intricacies of this prestigious rating system with Chris Watson, a former Michelin inspector, who shares his experiences and insights.
Chris Watson
The Path to Becoming a Michelin Inspector
The recruitment process to become a Michelin inspector is rigorous. It begins with a demanding interview featuring around 150-200 questions about food, all to be answered in a limited time. Subsequent interviews with the deputy editor and other staff follow, culminating in a lunch with the editor, a nerve-wracking experience in itself. Watson recalls his lunch at Pierre Koffmann’s “La Tante Claire,” then a two-star restaurant, where he faced constant questioning.
While the job doesn’t offer riches, it provides a unique quality of life and unparalleled experience. The average tenure is about five years. Seniority is primarily based on length of service, but experience influences the complexity of restaurant assignments and decision-making.
A Day in the Life of a Michelin Inspector
An inspector’s schedule is demanding, requiring approximately two weeks of travel per month, often without weekends. Trips to regions like Ireland or the Channel Islands can extend to three weeks. A highlight amidst the solitary travel is the opportunity to dine at a Michelin-starred restaurant in the region, joined by another inspector. However, most meals, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner, are eaten alone.
Contrary to popular belief, not all restaurants visited are glamorous. While there are opportunities to stay in luxurious country house hotels, many meals are at mediocre establishments. Inspectors might even find themselves having dinner at 6 pm followed by another at 8 pm to complete their assigned region. It requires careful pacing and sensible eating habits.
What Inspectors Look For: The Criteria for Michelin Stars
Michelin has increasingly emphasized that stars reflect the cuisine, not the service. However, an inspector’s prior knowledge of the chef’s experience and background inevitably plays a role. Ultimately, the focus remains on the food itself. Trends may come and go, but the quality of what’s on the plate is paramount.
The Michelin Guide logo, a symbol of culinary excellence and a benchmark for restaurants worldwide.
One Star: A one-star restaurant uses high-quality, seasonal, and often local produce. Sustainability, while important, is a separate consideration. The best available ingredients are prioritized.
Two Stars: Two stars signify a step up in complexity. Dishes often feature multiple ingredients and techniques that are technically challenging. Taste and balance are essential. The sauces in a two-star dish should have multiple layers of flavor and a lingering aftertaste, unlike the clearly defined taste of a one-star sauce. Visually, a two-star dish should evoke a “wow” factor.
Three Stars: For Watson, three stars are all about consistency. While the style might be grand and classic, as you’d find in establishments like the Crillon or Tour d’Argent, the key is faultless execution every single time. Consistency, above all else, is the hallmark of a three-star restaurant. Menus don’t change drastically, but every aspect of the dining experience must be impeccable.
How the Michelin Guide Has Evolved
The guide has made efforts to stay relevant by linking with table booking engines and hotel platforms. It has also recognized that some grand establishments may not have maintained their standards. In some cases, when leadership transitions from father to son or daughter, the guide has used the opportunity to demote the restaurant to two stars, challenging the new generation to earn the third star independently.
The guide has also expanded its scope to include diverse cuisines like Indian, Thai, Chinese, and Japanese, reflecting a more global perspective.
The Relevance of the Michelin Guide Today
Despite some chefs returning their stars or choosing not to be featured, the Michelin Guide remains highly respected. Stars are a recognition of talent and hard work, and they undeniably attract customers.
While the rise of various media platforms has provided diners with more choices, the Michelin Guide’s unwavering objectivity and the mystery surrounding its inspectors continue to contribute to its success.
Focus on the Stars
Watson believes Michelin should maintain its relevancy by focusing on its star classifications and avoiding new awards that might dilute its brand. The excitement and anticipation each year are all about the stars. He suggests embracing trends like sustainability with the green star and being bold in awarding stars to diverse cuisines.
In conclusion, getting on the Michelin Guide is a multifaceted challenge that requires unwavering dedication to culinary excellence, consistent performance, and a commitment to using the best ingredients.
